Celtic Adventurer - Riding the World

Patagonia day 4

Today was tough, and as I write this the wind is once again howling outside.  After a comfortable night in the tent in Rio Gallegos I set off early in the direction of Ushuaia.  First stop was the YPF gas station for breakfast of 3 mediallunas and coffee. It was freezing cold, such a contrast to the heat of the day before. I was wearing a fleece , my waterproof liners and my bike gear! Still I was cold. A few kilometres outside Rio Gallegos I came to the first of the border crossings. For some reason which I have not found out yet, Tierra del fuego is split between Argentina and Chile. The problem is you need to go into chile to get back into Argentina, so that is two border crossings to Ushuaia, and the same two back again. Unfortunately it is a rather slow process, with the bus groups and the large number of people with cars.  So I spent many hours at borders today.

Tierra del fuego itself is an island. One reached by a ferry from the mainland. I had a stroke of luck in getting a free ride across the Straights of Magellan. Skipped to the top of the queue, asked about a ticket, was told I could get one on board, then on the ship no one asked me for one, so I just drove off the other side. But the luck was not to last that long. First the vibrations from the gravel road broke the front frame holding the windshield in place, so I had to get inventive with cable ties to put it back in place. Actually I think it looks quiet good. Then when I was nearing the 2^nd border crossing the Rear Michelin Anakee Tyre I put on in Buenos Aires completely failed. I thought there was something funny with the handling, so i looked down, and no rear tyre. The old tyre was completely spilt across the middle so it was terminal! Just as well I brought the Metzler with me instead of sending it by bus which I had considered. But by now I am totally expert at changing rubber. So with the Michelin gone to the tyre  graveyard in the sky, and my bike shod with a new Metzler Karoo I set off again.

The name of the island is Tierra del Fuego, Spanish for “land of fire”, but now I am here I am thinking a better name would be Tierra del Freezing!! It is Baltic cold, and the wind is wicked, I swear its worse than a woman scorned. I can only imagine what Tom Creen and Shackelton went through on their way back from the Antarctic. So tonight I am hold up in the Hostel Argentina in Rio Grande sheltering from the wind. The place has a horizons Unlimted motorcycle sticker on the door, so cant go too far wrong. In the morning will set off for Ushuaia and el fin del mundo! Feb 1^st 2008!

Wind !!!

Well today I got to Rio Gallegos, which I might describe as a delightfully horrid little town. There is nothing here, but at least it provides shelter from the wind. Now wind!! the story of the day. I have never seen or felt anything like it. I swear it was tryng to blow me off the road. It wasnt too bad until Rada Tilly, but today was hell on earth. There was a constant cross wind from the Pampas which was forcing me into the on coming traffic. Near the end of the day getting to Rio Gallegos I really thought I would have to give up and wait until morning when it is a little calmer. The GS was like a huge sail, and the peak on my Arai was trying to reef the head off my shoulders, but made it I did, and now my tent is up and I am fed, and tomorrow the attempt on Ushuaia begins! Wish me luck!

Patagonia

To night I am coming to you from Tilly a small town south of Rivadavia Patagonia, 1300 km’s from Ushuaia. The goal is so close now I can almost taste it. Just two more days and I will be at the end of the world.

I set out from Buenos Aires last Saturday with Fabrizio and his wife Jeff. We rode to Azul, which is a nice little town south of Buenos Aires. It was relaxing and an easy day getting back into riding. But more importantly it was good to go riding with my new friends and perfect hosts in Buenos Aires.  They really couldn’t have been better! Thanks Guys!

In the evening we had one of the famous Argentina Asados. Basically an all you can eat BBQ, with a great selection of meat, topped off with some wine. Following day I rode the 1000kms to Puerto Madryn.  I arrived tired and smelly. Deciding to save money I found a campsite, where I pitched my tent. Actually it turned out to be really good. Hot showers and a great bunch of people, who even wanted to share their food and beer with me! Bike really is a good conversation starter. They are on an overland bus tour of South America, so I may even see them again in Ushuaia. Just outside of town I went to see some Sealions (Lobos Marinos) which really are noisy! You can see them on the beach below

Today was a day to remember. It started in Puerto Madryn, where I opened my day with two dives. They were my first dives since Colombia. The first dive was to a reef and the second my first shipwreck. It was good to get back in the water again even if the visibility was very poor and the water was much colder than the Caribbean.  The wreck dive was quite challenging visibility was about 2 meters and we were moving in such a tight space. It was cool though.  People in the Lobo Larsen dive centre were really friendly, and after a beer, some matte and a natter I was back on the bike heading south.

First stop was Gaiman a quaint wee Welsh settlement in southern Argentina. It even comes complete with a tea house opened by Diana Princess of Wales. I had to stop for a cup. Tea is served in a large tea pot complete with your Granny’s tea-cosy and a selection of cakes, sandwiches and scones. I have to admit that I devoured the lot! And drank about 6 cups of tea!!  Have to keep an eye on my panchito!

So filled with tea and buns I was back on the bike heading south. The famed wind of Patagonia really only kicked in north of Rivadavia. It’s vicious when it hits, some really strong gusts. But mostly the riding has been pretty consistent, if a little monotonous.

Strangely I have found a calm tranquillity in it. You really have time to get lost in your thoughts driving along. Just me my thoughts and the bike. I think I know all its idiosyncrasies by now.  But what did occur to me today was that the hardest thing about achieving anything is defeating first yourself. I think we are our own worst enemy in a way. Once you can convince yourself and get over your own self doubt, you can achieve anything. So on that philosophical note I will leave you.

On the road again!

Much as i love Buenos Aires, I came here to travel to Ushuaia, so regrettably I must pull myself away from here and get back on the road. Buenos Aires has been good to me. I have had lots of fun, and fattened up (well a little) on steak and wine.

Also go the bike fully repaired, new clutch line, windshield back in place, and the bodywork back on. I got my new tyres from Javier at Dakar Motos. Got to nip down tomorrow to collect the Metzler Karoo, its a mean dirt tyre.

Today I got the last of the service work done, Change of oil, filter, adjusted the valves, cleaned the K&N, changed the Gear oil, and swapped out the back brake pads. You should have seen the muck that came out of the final drive! pure badness. The back brakes were worn pretty bare also! see the picture below, almost metal on metal.

You can now see the bike is back in good order.

On Saturday I will ride out with Fabrizio south, I plan to take Ruta 3 down the coast, and then follow Ruta 40 back to Chile Chico before hopping over to Chile to ride up the Carretera Austral to Puerto Montt. What I am really looking forward to is the stops at El Calafate, and El Chalten for some Galcier and Ice climbing, not to mention the 1000's of km's of gravel roads. Want to see if I can get up Mt Fitzroy also. I feel some great pictures coming on. So 1 week from Saturday and I should finally be at the end of the world! El fin del mundo, and from there its the start of the journey home, and the beginning of a new adventure.

Ps here is a picture of Fabrizio trying to kick start an 1940s Aerial (he is going to kill me for this). Suggested Captions on a postcard please!!

Uruguay

Arrived in Punta del Este, Uruguay yesterday, expecting more of the same, sun and beaches. But no!! after the overnight ride from Florianopolis we arrived in to rain and a cold wind! I only had shorts and T-shirt!!! The bus station is at the back of the town, at the end of a road that comes in along sand dunes and some low grade housing. It really was very reminiscent of cold damp summers previously spent in Ballybunnion! holidays which were abandoned due to the weather. It certainly wasnt the Punta del Este I was expecting, the Monaco of the south, where all the rich flock for their summer break. Today did a bit more exploring, ie the other side of town, and that is a different story. Really nice marina, actually perfect for a fireball event. Will have to recomend it to the International Committee. Will check out the night life later and will be back to see if it really is like Monaco!! How many celebs will be looking for my autograph I wonder.

Havent had so many bike pictures up of late, but will give you a feast of beach ones in the next few days to make up for it. Also got the news that my new parts had arrived in Atlanta yesterday so it wont be too long before I will be back on the road, and this can return to being a motorcycle blog!!!

Catch up and happy new year.

Hello everyone! finally i find the time to make my first post of the new year. So here I am the Celtic adventurer coming to you from Florianopolis, Brazil. I have spent the last few days surfing! .. well learning to surf! Amazingly I even got up and stayed up a few times today! so more lessons tomorrow and then i think i will have it! Beaches hear are amazing! lovely breakers, golden sand and some lovely girls also. Plenty of sights to look at. You wont get bored here.

But maybe I will fill you in on the last few days. Christmas and New Years were spent in Buenos Aires, with my friends Paul, Andrew, Ciaran and Tom. We had a laugh, the big night here is Christmas Eve. For our Christmas supper we decided to find a hotel in Puerto madero (Buenos Aires version of the IFSC). The first place we came across was packed, but I went in and asked, and they just had a table free. Price I thought was 45 pesos each.. very cheap, so i said yes. We all piled in and were really enjoying the food, good wine, the champagne etc, when Andy decided to nip outside for a few minutes. He comes back after reading the bottom of the menu "lads its not 45 its 400!" ouch. But on the plus side it was all you can drink.. so you can guess a table of 5 paddys with unlimited champagne was fun, and we were the last ones left in the restaurant.. had to make sure we got our moneys worth.

We spent the next few days exploring the city, a day trip to Uruguay, and a few excursions around the area. Simon my earlier biking partner for Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru showed up day before new years with a crazy Welsh man in tow. So it was all go for new years eve! we gate crashed a party at the Mill House hostel, and then spilled over to the street, and finally ended up in San Telmo, a long way from home! but it was so much fun! and good catching up on stories. Plenty of more stories but i wont bore you now with them.

Once we had all sobered up Paul and myself hopped on the bus to Iguazu falls on the northern border with Brazil and Paraguay. Long sleepy journey .. uneventful. But the falls are fantastic! one of the true wonders of the world! so much water.. and after long and careful scientific study i can conclude I will never attempt this drop in my kayak! We saw both sides and the Itaipu power plant (largest hydropower plant in the world!) Impressive but not worth the entry fee!

Brazil is expensive compared with the rest of the Continent. So will be heading back south soon. In a few days we have a bus to Punte del Este in Uruguay and then its back to Buenos Aires via Montevideo. Hoping the parts for the bike will be ready then, and I will be on my way to finish the journey.

Speaking of parts ! its a pretty extensive repair list!

34 52 7 680 476  $ 60.50        ABS Ring Sensor
34 11 7 676 550  $199.00       Brake Disc
21 52 7 675 102  $106.00       Clutch Cable
07 11 9 963 072  $   .50 x4     Gasket Rings
32 72 7 694 289  $305.00       Clutch Lever
61 31 7 671 111  $ 16.00        Clutch Lever Position Sensor
36 31 7 664 595  $  2.00 x2    Spokes
62 11 7 705 210  $925.00       Digital Display Console
63 12 7 713 389  $360.00       Headlights

Total parts cost: $1977.50 USD

In the end I decided not to order the Console and the Clutch Lever. (I will make do until i visit BMW Germany on my way home). But it is expensive!! next task is to find the money!! But maybe fame in around the corner. I finally made the newspaper back in Ireland. See the link http://www.dublinpeople.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=3490&Itemid=52